Forgive me if this seems like one of those posts that might have been written by an over-excitable puppy, but the sparkly lemonadey feeling of learning something new (as with the dressmaking) can bring that out in one. It all started when an A4 package arrived on my doorstep on Saturday morning. Photo Papers Direct had written to me the week before last asking if I'd like to try some of their t-shirt transfer paper, an offer which would have had me biting off their hand had they not been at a safe distance behind a computer, as I do love the idea of mixing some fancy-pants wizardry into the stitching arena. Anyway, the papers arrived on Saturday and due to them being 'printer-related' they seemed to break down a crafting gender divide and Mr Teacakes was just as enthusiastic about the potential uses as I was (Mr Teacakes is currently in the process of drawing an enormous picture of another world for the children's walls and so the idea of transferring a small section of this on to a t-shirt was one that really appealed).
Anyway, for the last five years I have been rather desperate to learn to use a computer graphics programmes that would allow me to draw, but more importantly mix drawing with samples of fabric. But somehow I've never got around to mastering how to do this. However, on Saturday every time I thought about the t-shirt transfers that I'd like to create they all involved this mixture of computer-generated drawing and fabric samples and so on Saturday night I sketched a tortoise by hand and then loaded it on to the computer and asked Mr Teacakes to teach me how to draw around it. The first couple of hours were a little frustrating as every curve and line is manipulated by handles that spring off each 'point' and it's not as intuitive as I'd expected it to be...however, by midnight this tortoise had been born, I was happily clicking my way around, revelling in how perfectly curvaceous the computer can make things look, and had even learnt to order my work properly by using 'layers'. There's so much happiness to be had from being geeky. I think the ideal package for this type of thing would be Illustrator, but as I only have Fireworks on my computer that's what I used and it seemed to be capable of doing everything I wanted it to do. I then used Heather Bailey's Nicey Jane fabric line to fill in the tortoise's shell because it's a fabric line that I can't stop thinking about (Fabric Rehab started stocking this last week and seem to be the UK's first and only suppliers - hurrah for them - and as if this wasn't enough fabric excitement for one week, Seamstar has just taken delivery of Anna Maria Horner's Folksy Flannels).
So all this may make it seem like there must be a lot of prep-work involved in using t-shirt transfers...but no, all that is just self-created hustle and bustle around the project. If you didn't fancy gathering enormous eye-bags with yet another late night crafting session you could take a simple picture, photo or even a word (although you'd need to flip it first as a mirror-image is what's transferred onto the t-shirt). Once my tortoise was finished it was actually just a case of printing it onto the transfer paper and ironing it on...a five minute job. My first attempt was unsuccessful in a number of ways...I chose a pink t-shirt, which wasn't the best choice for retaining the vibrant colours, but that was irrelevant anyway, as I managed to singe the t-shirt and actually turn it a rather ugly brown. The instructions said that the transfer would be complete once a symbol on the paper had changed colour...but I wanted to be definitely sure that the transfer really had worked and so chose to leave the hot iron scorching away for another minute once I'd seen the symbol change colour...I'm a wise one. However, once I'd defumigated the house I decided to try again with a white t-shirt and to follow the instructions properly.
This time I was really pleased with the results - the image doesn't have that horrible shiny look that some t-shirt transfers can have - you can see this better here:
I love the way the fabric on the shell looks too. I'd worried about leaving the background of the shell white in case the transfer made this look odd...but you really can't see that it's a transfer, it's as if the prints are actually a part of the original fabric of the t-shirt:
Can you tell quite how much I love this whole process? And the Zebra - well, she loved it - she stood by declaring each stage a success (even the burnt t-shirt) and wiggled her way into the t-shirt the minute it had cooled down. I'd love to also use the transfers on some plain cotton to make pencil cases for her and dinosaur-boy...they seem to love things with their names on and their own pictures could be scanned in and transferred on.
I feel like the fun has just begun - I have so many ideas for how I'd like to use these papers and next on my list is mixing in some stitching with the final transfer to create something more textural and
So anyway, should you wish to venture down the transfer route (I've done the t-shirt burning bit for you now...you really can follow the instructions safe in the knowledge that you don't need to double the suggested ironing time for no reason at all.) then my papers were sent from the lovelies at Photo Paper Direct - they sent me two packs, one for using on light coloured fabrics and one for dark coloured fabrics. I'm yet to try out the dark version - I think the technique for transferring differs somewhat, but it looks just as simple. I will report back when Mr Teacakes has had a turn as he is planning to use them for something relating to Dinosaur-boy's birthday in a few months time.
Anyway, I had meant to blog about my new quilt this evening, but really this was all far too exciting not to tell you about right this instant. So sorry for the over-enthusiasm...I think learning new things does this to me...time to lie down in a darkened room.
I hope you've had the most lovely of weekends,
Florence x




















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This is the yoke as a work-in-progress for the dress that I made for my sister's Christmas present. Planning this dress turned my head inside out...it took me so long to work out what order to do things in as I'm not used to working with concealed zips with linings.
Anyway, this hanger (which is a baby's hanger) is far too small for displaying adult clothes on (hence the fact that it looks a little odd), but here it was before I sewed the central buttons on and hemmed it - I never took a photograph of the finished dress as December was a little busy, but I was pleased with the way that the lining had gone in, even though I feel like I've since learnt so much about drafting patterns (see last post), that I may not necessarily have cut it in quite the way that I did.
It feels unbelievable to me that something that didn't exist at 8.30pm on Friday night can have materialised and be ready to wear by Saturday morning. But it was, and I was so excited that I completely forgot to take any pictures of it until that evening when I was making a cheese sauce. So just like any normal person making something that will catch on the bottom of the pan easily, I grabbed my camera and took some right there and then before it got covered in flour.
Hurrah for multi-tasking...the cheese sauce didn't burn and was tea was ready ten minutes later.
What has pleased me most about these skirts is that I'm rapidly feeling like making my own wardrobe is the most appealing option. I have always loved clothes shopping with an absolute passion and thought that making my own clothes could be fun, but that really I'd want them in addition to my shop bought lovelies, not instead of. However, I've had a skirt from Gap that was (almost) perfectly acceptable sat in a bag for a week. It was a little too long for me and would have needed shortening and I would have needed to have moved some of the buttons at the front to take it in at the waist (due to Gap no longer stocking their smallest size...
Anyway, going back to my last post - if you commented then I've (hopefully) responded in the 
The book's aim is to give you the ability to make garments fitted perfectly to your own unique body shape and size. The book is full of examples that you can follow, but you quickly realise that you can merge them together and add in your own details as the focus is on pattern-making (not how you sew the pattern pieces together), which gives you more freedom to introduce your own ideas. After taking 24 measurements from around your body (see picture), you learn to draw out an accurate pattern using these, as well as how to add in extra inchage for darts, ease, seam allowances and how to guesstimate your sweep circumference (that's the circumference of the hem of your intended garment). Cal shows you how to do everything in such a way that it quickly becomes instinctive as to the processes you need to go through to make a pattern work if you alter any one of the variables that you've already drafted in (such as a dart). It made me realise that I'd missed so many basics in my own pattern making - like the idea that waists and hems are not straight lines, but gently curve to flatter your own curves, or that it's essential that all the corners must remain square at 90 degree angles...and yes, you're shown how to blend these two things together. She manages to make complex tasks (such as 'slash and spread' - where you slash and spread your basic pattern to give a fuller, twirlier skirt) feel completely do-able.
I've felt horribly stunted by my own poor understanding of how to draft a pattern and so this book feels like an absolute gift. As soon as I'd finished reading it I was desperate to start making something using the techniques. The only suitable material left in the house for dressmaking was the half-metre remnant from the dress in the last post, so I decided to make a denim skirt using a side fastening (having seen it in action looking completely fabulous
I bound the pockets with home-made denim bias tape and lined the inside of the pockets with a brown Denyse Schmidt print from the Katie Jump Rope range.
And then to add to the fun of dressing in the morning I bound the waist band with the same print...no you can't see it from the outside...but I know it's there and it makes me utterly happy.
I then added some more Jump Rope fabric to the bottom of the hem and used this as the turn up inside the skirt...you can see a peek of it when sitting cross legged...I wish all my skirts had this on now.
So the actual fit of the skirt...well, Cal's methods really do work. It feels like it has been made just for me. In a rare fit of patience I made a muslin (rough version of the garment using cheap material) to check the fit first and did end up adjusting darts and altering the waist size a little. The muslin was an old bed sheet...it's hard to assess whether you have the right balance between fitted and clingy when working a thread-bare bed sheet saved from teenagehood, but I do think it is so worth doing even with this poor stand-in material and now can't believe that I would ever have dreamt of jumping right in there (Cal advises that you use the same weight of fabric for the muslin as you intend to use for the final item...I didn't quite manage that bit).
Skirts can often be a bit gapey around the waist at the back, but this fits perfectly.


